Old Climbering Grounds & Brotherly / Motherly Surprises

Yup that's right, old stomping grounds: the crazy conglomerate of El Rito, New Mexico.  Little ol El Rito was anything but quiet this past week.  I remember coming here to climb on weekends and nearly having the whole crag to ourselves, perhaps it was the recent feature in Climbing magazine.  Kinda cool to see the area getting some recognition.  El Rito rocks! and don't forget to visit the nearby Ojo Caliente mineral springs and spa on that rest day:)    

In between climbing / camping stints at El Rito Kristin and I traveled a little further south on 5/13 to Santa Fe for a special surprise.  We orchestrated a perfect UN-discoverable surprise...or we thought:)  See, May 13 is my brothers birthday, which also happened to be Mother's day this year:)  Dad was to convince the two of them it was a simple trip to Santa Fe to celebrate the joint b-day / m-day.  It almost worked.  It turned out mom had a slight tip off to the surprise (Dad discussing the surprise with me over the tele....with mom sitting right next to him)  Sean had no idea so we batted a 0.500 on 5/13.

Dad took them both to the Marble brewery taproom overlooking the Santa Fe plaza for a midday brew-ski. At this time we called them on their cell phones to wish them a happy days, after a few words we then walked into room to two really BIG smiles:)         


The Cathedral Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi

Our Lady of Guadalupe

If only she was this surprised when we walked in

Sean n Ol Johnny Cash (his favorite musician)

My Darling Smile

Pops @ Marble
Second Street Brewery - Next visit , McQuade's to CO

Staying dry during an El Rito hail storm

The Scoop - ya thats right the only down skirt being worn in NM....EVER?








AK'n IT - Turnagain Pass to Valdez

Given Colorado's worst ski season on record, K and I were about to hang up the snowboards for life.  Man do we owe it to the AK, if it weren't for the two Radtadicle trips to the Chugach this season we probably would of become year around climbers:)  This trip we brought with us an AK newbie...can we have a round of applause for Drew Ignizio (aka Rack City) Drew provided us with this theme song (edited version) for the 12 day trip, by the end of the trip we were all mathematical whizzes :)

The month of March provided us with what I like to call CODE BLUE conditions.  That's blue bird in AK tongue.  Unlike CO, AK doesn't get 365 days of blue bird sunshine.  And when it days...well sound the alarms and get after it!  Ill let the pics do the rest of the talking:)

March 17th, AK style - "The Irish Stout" packed in and consumed on the summit of cornbiscuit Peak

oh ya that's Drew for those who don't recognize 

Breaking through the Inversion - spent all morning in low visibility conditions, then once above the clouds...

CODE BLUE

Well above the clouds - Kickstep Peak from the summit of Sunburst

Our previous days work still lies visible -  On this epic day we ride back below the clouds, then head over to the pk in the far background (Pastoral) for some UNTOUCHED BEAUTY!

"The best day skiing of all time" - per Chip Serns coming off Pastoral Pk

CHU CHU CHUGACH - This view would make anyone stutter - from near Pastoral's summit

The Pastoral crew + Chip behind the camera

Cracked Ice - The highpoint just below the sun, 4300 vertical feet right back to the car door:)

Drew & Python

Cracked Ice summit shot

Rack City himself

Noel - notice the figures on the saddle in background, they were intending to drop on Cracked Ice summit, but when the pilot saw us earning our turns he dropped them off on another sector - we saw the pilot back at the parking lot as he waited for his clients

K making it look purty

Matthu Pitchu Arena - High above Port Valdez, our days goal (pt 4572') is behind the pointed peak at 11 o'clcok

Gaining the summit of point 4572' - about to get our ski to sea on

Annie of the Ptarmigan B&B - Its our second stay with her in Valdez, cant wait til the next.   She even sent us back to Anchorage with a huge hunk of Moose :) YUM

Til next ski AK season:)

An Orange Colorado = 3 C's - Berthoud Pass, CO


Current Danger Rose
Front Range
2 / 17 / 2012

Had a wonderful day in the backcountry today near Berthoud Pass with Brian.  Friday am the CAIC released a special statement through Monday (see below) highlighting the Considerable   Avalanche Danger across the entire state, following the second avalanche related death in less then a week.





See CAIC accident reports here
 
 When I see the orange Considerable its time for the 3 c's:  careful snowpack evaluation, cautious rout-finding and conservative decision-making.   It's possible to enjoy yourself out there.  (Just ask Brian or see a pic below)  Please be careful out there!!!         



 
Special Statement 2/17/2012 - 2/20/2012
The Colorado Avalanche Information Center is issuing a Special Avalanche Statement for the mountains of Colorado this morning. This Special Statement will remain in effect through the upcoming weekend.

There have been two avalanche fatalities in Colorado since February 13th. This brings avalanche fatalities to 6 for the season. Over the last week seven people have been caught in avalanches. Two people have been seriously injured and required hospital care.  Very large avalanches have been reported across the state.
This trend is expected to continue through the holiday weekend. Do not let the upcoming holiday weekend or the nice weather in any way fool you into thinking the avalanche conditions are anything but very serious across Colorado.


Brian finding the Fun in Conservative Terrain - Berthoud Pass

Epic Dump to Touch and Go Conditions - The Chugach

AK oh AK how I love thou snow...
now please now please stop hogging it... and lend some to my CO.

Days 1 & 2:
  • epic reso riding and night skiing after reaching the bar's limit on Fizzes:)
Days 3, 4 & 5:
  • Subaru driveway skating, ski touring in the summit lake and turnagain pass sectors of the Chugach, followed by drinks and eats with AK peeps in Girdwood

So a week in AK proved to be all but long enough, especially with the complicated weather patterns they have been in. The entire month of January the average temp in Anchorage was 2.7 degrees! Now that's a little cold. However things warmed up once we arrived :) The snow also continued to dump. The night we flew in 30+ inches fell at Turnagain Pass and Alyeska ski resort. The next day an additional 2 feet dropped. Making Friday like Thursday, a mandatory resort day. While enjoying Vodka fizz's (secret recipe...read at bottom of page) at the mountain top bar at the end of the day you could hear the buzz from many Girdwood locals: things like "that was the best day this season, shit that was the best day in 30 years"!!! It surely hit the top on my list for best reso day ever! I'm pretty sure the word epic was created for the riding we experienced last Friday! I will leave it at that because trying to explain it wouldn't do a justice. Another way to look at it....it was so good I didn't take a single photo:)

After the dump we were itching to get out in the backcountry, however stability remained an issue the entire time, due to things like: 120 mile an hour winds recorded by Sunburst's weather station, temperature increases and heavy wet snow. We played it conservative with lower angles and lower elevations. At last it was AK, where even the low angle stuff is awesome!

We return in less then a month for 2 weeks! Heading to Thompson's Pass and Valdez! Bring it! Hopefully a few more ski pics will be provided from next trip, either it was to much fun or just too much Grey / Flat light.


A look up Glacier Creek at Milk Glacier - Girdwood Valley (surrounded by 7 permanent glaciers)



Seattle Creek from across the Turnagain Arm of the Cook Inlet


Mad Dawg look or Chewing? - Summit Lake sector
We toured Manitoba peak in the background on Day 5



Spirit Walker Pk recon pic 1: from Day 5 tour on Manitoba Pk


Goofin or Petrified of the sketchy bridge crossing? - Crossing Canyon Creek on the way to Manitoba Pk
Also joined by friends Gina and Chip - Fellow NMers


Caught the full moon rising over Manitoba Ridge - after a long tour up Manitoba peak. Congrats to Gina for her first split board tour :)




Spirit Walker recon pic 2: From Day 3 tour on Fresno Ridge
Conditions permitting would be nice to visit the spirit walker in March

Sunset Over the Arm - Day 6 as we head to the airport


PS: The 7 Glaciers Restaurant (Alyeska mountain top bar)...aka 7-G's....well anyway Kristin has cracked the secret recipe! After years of attempts by her and friends and drunken begging for hints from cute waitresses, she did it back in Golden. I was able to test it at 0700am after getting off from work. And i concur, its been cracked!!!!



Costa Rica - Todd and Zette get Hitched!

Last week we could of been stuck in CO, in the cold, without any snow to play in....nope not true instead we were in Costa Rica exposing our winter white skin to 94 degree UV rays.  Oh ya and by the way we also got to be a part of Todd and Suzzette's amazing wedding at the all-inclusive Hilton Papagayo Resort in Playa Panama....Ill save all the details, emotional reflections, total count of Guapirinha's and ceviche plates consumed.  Let's just say it was a RAD wedding.

My two favorite things about CR:
  1. Guapirinha: Costa Rica's version of the well known Brazilian caipirinha.  Go to any CR bar and hold up four fingers to the bartender and before you know it you'll be presented with the Guapirinha a sugar cane based rum (Cacique Guaro) drink with about a pound of muddled limes.  
  2. Ceviche: a central american traditional dish usually made from raw fish or mollusks marinated in citrus juices for around 24 hours prior to serving.  Pretty sure we averaged 2-4 ceviche plates a day while in CR; seabass, marlin, swordfish, shrimp...
Kristin and I did a bit of exploring for the few days we had after the wedding.  We hitched a ride with Rob and Leah into Liberia (the largest town of Guanacaste province of Costa Rica).  From Liberia we planned on catching some transportation to Rincon de la Vieja. We later found out from the hostel host that the national park is closed on Monday's. Plan B was to make our way to the local bus station and explore our options.  Liberia not being much of a tourist destination, tends to lack English speaking Costa Rican's... Thank goodness I had my personal translator with me.  I cant tell you how many times K saved the day.  I'm pretty sure I would of either paid 200 dollars for a 2 dollar bus fair or ended up on a bus to Panama.  So we ended up on a two hour bus ride with the locals down to Tamarindo to spend a day and a half playing on the beach, searching for nesting leatherback sea turtles by headlamp and eating grilled lobster with our feet in the sand.

Sorry for the lack of pics, camera battery died shortly after all the wedding pics :(


I present to you:    Todd and Suzzette Conner


Doesn't need a Caption - oops just got one :)


Da Boys


Me lovely lady - isn't she just gorgeous


If only you could see what she is blocking :)



Taken while sipping a Guapirinha on the beach in Tamarindo






Black Spiny-tailed Iguana of Costa Rica - costa rica's version of a stray dog





2 in the Snow, 2 on the Rock - RMNP, Cameron Pass & Shelf Road

As most of you snow snobs probably know all to well by now, our winter playground has stunk this season! Kristin and I have only been out two times:(  At this point last year, we had countless tours under our boards.  Its been kinda of rough... well except one bright side to the warmer temps has been the continuation of climbing.

The two tours this season have been:
  1. "Terrain Park Area" near Hallett Peak, RMNP
    • Cant wait to go back to RMNP, there are some awesome terrain opps: a favorite being Little AK near Knobtop peak.  
    • GPS Tracks (google maps)
Dragon Tail Couloir w tracks
click to enlarge

    1. Montgomery Bowl, Cameron Pass
      • This past Sunday Kristin, Drew and I cruised up to Cameron Pass after a much needed storm, for what we where hoping would be some good turns.  Not bad at all!  Finally 
      • GPS Tracks (google maps)
    Montgomery Bowls highlighted w tracks
    click to enlarge


        Hallett Peak on left and Dragontail couloir on right: RMNP
        a line for the early spring if  we ever get snow



        1 of 4 huge bucs seen in Estes Park after our tour in RMNP


        Cameron Pass Sector: from top of Montgomery Bowl near Diamond Peak


        After getting some much needed turns in on Sunday we returned to Golden to switch out splitty's for climbing gear.  We then spent Monday and Tuesday climbing Shelf in 60 degree weather.  Ha I even returned with a farmers tan!


        Kristin on Once Upon A Time 5.11a


        K on Gen X ation 5.11a



        Pre rock wrestling concentration






        Noteworthy Sends:

        Gen X ation 5.11a
        • OS

        Next posts will include the following adventures: Costa Rica, followed by AK, then climbing somewhere, then a yurt trip in the San Juans of CO, then AK again:)

        Hydrophobia - Shed Topsheet Snow Buildup

        Lets pretend It's spring ski season and all those big lines you've been dreaming about all winter long are finally starting to come in.  Those big lines also bring warmer weather, ok ok so we usually welcome the warmer temps, however don't forget with the warmer temps also comes heavier / stickier snow.  If its not sticking to your skins rendering them nearly useless then its sticking / building-up on your darn topsheets, resulting  in you dragging more weight during the climb.

        K2 has attempted to shed this build-up problem by  adding a hydrophobic material (SnoPhobic) to the topsheet of their BackSide line of ski.  (below is a snippet from the K2 website)


        SnoPhobic Topsheet
        Snow collecting on a ski can add weight to a climb. Our SnoPhobic tops keep you light with a new snow-repellent topsheet. The running surface along the bottom of a ski is hydrophobic by design, so we've developed a thinner version of the same material to use on the Back model-specific topsheets. Applying wax to the topsheet increases snow shedding performance.  


         As highlighted above K2 notes that the additional application of wax to their SnoPhobic topsheet may improve performance.  So what about your favorite liquid wax product for your car...


         


        Thats right RAIN-X.  After a recent conversation with a buddy, I'm gonna give the inexpensive treatment a shot (4 ounce bottle similar to the one pictured runs ~ 4.00).  It was developed for car windshields and works great at making rain bead up aiding in the clearing of water from your windshield.  One can only hope that treating your topsheet with RAIN-X will help keep snow off your sticks while touring.



        If it ever snows here in CO ill give it a shot and post a review of this possible topsheet build-up eliminator

        The PST - Propagation Saw Test

        Propagation Saw Test - the latest of the large column tests (ECT, PST) used as follow up evaluations to the standard compression test.  The compression test does a great job in identifying weak layers and suggesting if they are likely to initiate a failure within the snowpack.  The limit to the compression test is its inability to indicate whether the failure is likely to propagate into an avalanche.                   
         
        The first large column test or extended column test (ECT) - quick summary of the ECT, I will only go into details for the PST      -        including a video below from ASARC

        • aims to assess both fracture/failure initiation and propagation across an isolated column
        • requires an isolated column similar to the standard compression test, but on a larger scale (30cm x 90cm wide) compared to 30cm x 30cm used for the compression test.
        • The column is then loaded from one side using the same technique as
          the compression test. (loading area in below figure) 
        • Recent research with the ECT shows that results are most accurate when the weak layer is less than 70cm deep - for weak layers > 70cm deep consider the use of the PST
          •  
        • Interpreting and Recording Results As:
        The key observation is whether or not a fracture occurs across the entire column.  If it does fracture across the entire column, this means the weak layer may is capable of propagating a crack across an entire slope thus producing an avalanche.  The question is then, how likely are you to initiate this fracture process.  Record results in the following manner:

        • ECTPV - A fracture occurs across the entire column (propagation) during isolation. A very ustable result.
        • ECTP# - A fracture occurs across the entire column (propagation) after some number (#) of taps.
        • ECTN# - A fracture initiates but does not occur across the entire column (no propagation) after some number (#) of taps.
        • ECTX - No fractures occur in the column after a total of 30 taps. Generally a stable result.

          Ron Simenhois, Karl W. Birkeland; The Extended Column Test: Test effectiveness, spatial variability, and comparisonwith the Propagation Saw Test; Cold Regions Science and Technology: April 8, 2009

              Column isolation on left, loading of the column on the right : Photo Courtesy of the American Avalanche Association


              Now: propagation saw test (PST)
              • aims to again assess both fracture/failure initiation and propagation across an isolated column, differences being:
                • ability to test the tendency of a specific weak layer and slab combination independent of loading/compression or shear force from above for fracture initiation
                • in contrast to the ECT the PST can be applied to slab/weak layer combinations ranging from 30cm to >250cm deep and is therefore capable of testing slabs in the skier trigger-able range as well as much deeper slabs whom may become reactive as a result of step down energy
              • requires an isolated column 30cm x 100cm upslope, for weak layers > 100cm deep , the column length should be equal to the layer depth
              • After identifying the weak layer of interest drag the blunt edge of the saw upslope along the weak layer at 10-20cm/second taking care to keep the blade within the weak layer. Continue until the fracture jumps ahead of the saw
                • consider repeating the test if you suspect the saw left the weak layer
              • The propagating fracture will either:
                • reach the end of the column (END)
                • stop at a slab fracture (SF)
                • or self-arrest within the layer (ARR)
              • Recording Results As:
                • PST x/y (ARR, SF, or END) down z on yymmdd
                  • x = cut length
                  • y = column length
                  • z = weak layer depth
                  • finally the date of test
                  • PST 25cm/100cm (END) down 85cm on 12/22/2011
              • PST interpretation:
                • Propagation is only predicted likely if the fracture/failure initiates when the saw is moved 50% of less than the upslope length of the column and continues uninterrupted to the end of the column (Dave Gauthier, Cameron Ross, Bruce Jamieson; How To: The Propagation Saw Test: Journal of Glaciology: Awaiting Publication - 2011)  
                • All other results indicate propagation is unlikely
                  • including anytime propagation reaches the end of the column once more than half the column has been cut  
                  • Thus above example  PST 25cm/100cm (END) down 85cm on 12/22/2011 indicates high propagation tendency.
              •  LIMITATIONS:
                •  PST results have been shown to indicate a larger number of false STABLE results than other common stability tests, especially among shallow soft slabs (Gauthier et al)
                Dave Gauthier, Cameron Ross, Bruce Jamieson; How To: The Propagation Saw Test: Journal of Glaciology: Awaiting Publication - 2011
                Column isolation on the left, and saw cutting (using blunt edge) upslope along the weak layer of interest on the right: Photo Courtesy of the American Avalanche Association
                Remember to keep the whole picture in mind when gathering information about snow stability.  The above tests are only a piece of the puzzle; forecasts from your local av center, detailed understanding of the recent weather cycles, field observations, combined with stability tests lead to an overall view of the current conditions.     Below is a video from ASARC (Applied Snow and Research Center of Calgary University) on the PST Propagation saw test (PST) from Bruce Jamieson on Vimeo.

              Season Lasts - Shelf Road, Buffalo Creek



              We kicked off the last week of November with some catch phrase and sour cream apple pie at the Lansing's for what was an amazing Thanksgiving dinner.  A few days later we crushed some stone down at Shelf Road for a few days in what turned out to be the falls best weather for climbing, low 60's and nothing but sun.  We left shelf wondering if it was the final climbing trip of the year, especially with the snow starting to accumulate.  The final day of our off week we went up to Buffalo Creek for some amazing singletrack.  I love Buffalo Creek!

              Buffalo Creek:

              Remnants of High Meadows Fire of 2000 - Does make for some awesome singletrack
               



























              Granite Moab - Buffalo Creek area offers a lot of rock features and sections of trail strictly on rock






























              Survivors




























              Camo - Where's Kristin?
































              Shelf Road:

              Muscle Beach 5.11a/b - A Vaino Kodas, Bob D'Antonio masterpiece 2001




























              Noteworthy Sends:

              Morpheus 5.11b

              • OS

              Muscle Beach 5.11a/b

              • OS

              Green Street Theater - Halloween NM Style

              Halloween 2011 - Green Street Theater Style, marked my return to NM for the first time since, May of 2010 prior to my departure to Spokane, WA for residency (shout out to club Deac). It was awesome to be back in Albs, seeing the fam and visiting with friends.  Ohhh yes then there was the Halloween party!

              The pics below were taken during costume preparation with Suzzette N Todd, and Krisitin  prior to the party.

              For actual party scene pics visit Wes's blog   


              One of my better moments































              Mad Hatter - Todd



























              Slutty Cinderella, Naughty Little Red Riding Hood - Suzzette, Kristin






























              RAD

              Shelf Road ' N

              A campsite filling group of us traveled down south for 4 days of climbing on Shelf's always impressive limestone.

              The crew - Jerm, Lisa, Ryan'o, J-Rock, mua, Kster




















              Shelf Road: Nearing 1000 vertical pocketed routes on bulletproof limestone.  Shelf probably sits #3 on my list of favorite limestone crags visited this year.  (Spearfish, Ten Sleep, Shelf)  One great attribute of Shelf is however the possibility for winter climbing.

              Newly released Shelf guidebook: Bob D. Antonio (2010).  I believe this is book #3 or #4 published for the area. This new release is the first to contain all shelf crags and to utilize color photos. Warning: There have been a few reported errors in the guide. One such example exists on the Spiney Ridge section of the guide book and involves two classic routes: Toxxxic Entertainment (5.10a) and Purple Toe Nails (5.11c).  The route tracing drawn/transposed over the color photo are shifted.  Making Purple Toe Nails look like its neighbor Toxxxic Entertainment.  The error caused me to jump on Purple Toe Tails instead of Toxxxic Entrainment as warm up number two for the morning.  In fear of not on-sighting a 5.10a as the flash pump reached painful levels I thankfully reached the anchors.  After reaching the ground and grasping my forearms in embarrassment, I was greeted by another couple saying "Nicely done, that's a hard route"  I responded "that's the hardest fn 10a I have ever done"!  "NO NO You just on-sighted Purple Toe Nails a classic 5.11c"  Thank goodness I was just about to go back to camp and drink beers.  Anyway heads up with the new guidebook:)
                      












              Cactus Cliff - A popular colder weather crag






















              K on Urban Fringe (5.10d)

              Ryan on LaCholla Jackson (5.9)






























              Me on Funkdemental (5.11b)

























              Ryan on Ga-Stoned Again (5.9)


              Noteworthy Sends:


              Funkdemental 5.11b
              • FL
              Purple Toe Nails 5.11c
              • OS

              Pot Pie Pizza & Da "Bers" - The Windy City

              Chicago with the Casey's!  Finally made it out to K's crib:)  This visit was long overdue:)  What a perfect time to visit the windy city, which really was more like the sunny city for our 5 day visit.  I mean really.... a Bears game in early October, in short sleeves, like I said perfect timing.

              Trip Highlights (many more then whats listed below)

              • CPOG (chicago pizza & oven grinder company)   
                • Pizza Pot Pies:  what a Chicago welcoming, from the airport to the CPOG 
                • Valentine's Day Massacre: a garage directly across from the CPOG was thought to of housed the sub-machine guns that brought the notorious “St. Valentine’s Day Massacre” to headlines around the world. Rumor has it that the house at 2121 North Clark (now CPOG) served as a lookout post for the hoodlum henchmen of the Valentine gunners.
                • Chicago's architectural heritage is considered to be among the finest in the world...what better way to view the magnificent structures then via Chicago River.  Wendella boasts as Chicago's only tour boat company with a dedicated, in-house education department allowing the docents to provide a unique and entertaining insight into Chicago's architecture.  Great idea Debbie:) 
              Tribune Tower (On June 10, 1922, the Chicago Tribune hosted an international design competition for its new headquarters, and offered $100,000 in prize money for "the most beautiful and distinctive office building in the world". The competition worked brilliantly for months as a publicity stunt, and the resulting entries still reveal a unique turning
              point in American architectural history. More than 260 entries were received.)


              One of my favs.  The architect purposefully used specifically curved glass windows to capture the reflection of surrounding buildings

              Sears....I mean Willis Tower as it was renamed in 2009. Once the tallest building in the world, now remains as the tallest building in the US (108 floors, 1,451')

               
                • Starting with a taste of tailgating.. NFL style with Chicago's diehards
                • I also learned during a phone call to brag to my pops about getting to watch a game at Soldier Field...It turns out he one upped me - He played at Soldier Field against Navy with the Air Force Academy back in 1966
              Tailgating at Soldier Field - Now these guys had the setup!  A convert into a party ambulance:)

              Not bad for the "Nosebleeds" - Bears won 34-31 - Do you think in 1966 the endzone graphics were in black and white? :)

              • Wrigleyville  & Bears victory celebration at Chicago's top 3 bars
                • After the bears game, Kristin got this rural raised city slacker on the L (elevated train) to Wrigleyville
                  • Formerly a working-class neighborhood, Wrigleyville is the nickname to the neighborhood directly surrounding Wrigley Field, which is more commonly referred to as Central Lakeview.  
                • The top 3 Bars:
                  • Sheffield's Beer Garden (located in 3 blocks south of Wrigley Field)
                  • The Green Mill Cocktail Lounge (Shades of Al Capone's heyday are found in the wall memorabilia. Ask the bar tender about the famous booth where he and his henchmen could keep a cautious eye on both doors)
                  • The Hopleaf (Chicago's best Belgium Style Muscles, and one heck of a beer list)








              Waveland Avenue and the Wrigley Rooftops  (Wrigley roofs have dotted the neighborhood of Wrigleyville around Wrigley Field. Venues on Waveland Avenue overlook left field, while those along Sheffield Avenue have a view over right field)



              Already looking forward to our next visit to the Casey's in Chicago.  Maybe next time we will remmber to get a group photo:)  In the meantime we will keep working on a McQuade/Casey Colorado Christmas:)

              Hormone of Darkness and Limestone Gripping - Spearfish Canyon, SD

              N-acetyl-5-methoxytryptamine (Melatonin): levels of the hormone melatonin vary in a daily cycle, thereby allowing the entrainment of the circadian rhythms of several biological functions.


              • Hows it work: melatonin is secreted into the blood by the pineal gland in the brain. Known as the "hormone of darkness" it is secreted in darkness in both day-active (diurnal) and night-active (nocturnal) animals.
                • May explain why one of my night techs is a quiet/sleepy dude.  He tends to work in the IV room in the dark.....hmmm

              • Recommended Uses per Chuck and Kristin:  For you night shifters out there, this stuff rocks.  Useful for flip overs, wicked vivid dreams and discovered on this trip to Spearfish: aides in some of the best tent sleep I have ever had:)
              Granted we had the whole campground to ourselves:)

              Also aiding in tent sleep, Crow Peak IPA: The local brewery in Spearfish. Likely the only microbrew in SD.  We had to resort to the can since the brewery was in the process of filtering the new batch of IPA.

              • Melatonin & Dreaming: Some supplemental melatonin users report an increase in vivid dreaming. Extremely high doses of melatonin (50 mg) dramatically increased REM sleep time and dream activity in both people with and without narcolepsy. Many psychoactive drugs, such as cannabis and lysergic acid diethylamide (LSD), increase melatonin synthesis.....Know any sleepy pot heads?
                • *Note*  50mg doses started above are extremely high doses utilized in a clinical trial assessing dream activity associated with extremely high doses.  The recommended doses are much lower.  We suggest starting with 3mg doses with the potential to increase to 6mg.  We cannot suggest doses above this as we have no experience with doses greater then 6mg.

              Spearfish Limestone:



              • The Guidebook Spearfish Canyon, The VC, and other Black Hills Limestone Guidebook, by Mike Croni. Buy here













              The climbing was absolutely RAD! Prior to this trip I was in love with Ten Sleep Canyon Limestone, now I'm pretty sure I'm cheating on Ten Sleep with Spearfish:)  We climbed 4 days and mountain biked 1 day.  During the 4 days of climbing it wasn't until the last route of the trip that we saw someone, a couple that came down from Canada.  We also took in some live music in Deadwood, SD during a rest day.  



              Roughlock Falls, Spearfish Canyon

              Dances with Wolves Film Site, Spearfish Canyon




              Black Hills Mtn Biking - right from the back door of our tent

              The Prow - Sunshine Wall Crag



              Astro Pop - The Firsts- Sunshine Wall Crag

              The approach to The Dark Side Crag

              Rapping after a route above an old mine shaft




              Rest Day in Deadwood, SD



              Deadwood music festival, the cheapseats (free)


              Cant wait to return to the SF


              Noteworthy Sends:


              Merchants of Death 5.11a
              • OS
              Courtesy Drip 5.11a
              • OS
              Astro Pop 5.11b
              • OS

              Backyard Biking - A Little Taster

              Its been quiet sometime since our last post.  I guess that means we have been having to much fun to sit in front of computers and create blog posts:)  Its amazing how fast the summer months have flown by since our relocation to G-Town.  Most of the summer has been spent rock gripping, its just so hard to do anything else with all the epic rock around here.  We've managed many mountain bike rides within the area, however not enough high alpine rides....and there has already been snow topping higher elevation peaks!  I guess the alpine rides will be on the docket for next season.

              GPS Tracks:
              • Dedisse Trail, near Evergreen, Colorado
              • Bergen Peak Trail, near Evergreen, Colorado
              • Centennial Cone Trail, Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado
              • Kenosha Pass Trail, near Como, Colorado (18 of 30 miles completed)
                • unable to complete Kenosha pass trail, typically ridden as a 30+ mile ride over Georgia pass finishing with a mind blowing brake slamming descent into the town of Breckenridge.  If you don't have willing friends to pick your now sore behind up in breck and drive you back to your car at Kenosha Pass the ride turn into 60 miles with over 8000' vertical gain. 
                • Kenosha Pass to Georgia Pass to Breck is regarded by many as one of the best portions of the Colorado Trail for mtn bikers. Next time some butt butter and an earlier start.  Oh ya we wont forget the beer to bribe friends to pick us up in Breck and shuttle us back to the truck:)
               
              K grinding it out (Dedisse Trail)



              Running from the eye, we later got hammered (Centennial Cone Trail)

              Ten Mile/Mosquito Range (Kenosha Pass Trail)


              RC - A climbing NAT-U-REL

              Ya so it must run in the family.  The Casey's appear to be climbing naturals:), first Kristin and now Ryan Casey (RC), who got the crash course last weekend.


              Day 1: Little Eiger wall at Clear Creek Canyon.  Ryan is introduced via a 5.10a crack, followed by a 130' 5.10c with a large roof bulge.  To round out the day Ryan took on a 5.9+ dihedral, completing the cycle regarding classic features. 
              
              Ryan on Headline 5.10a
              

              




              Day 2:  Tyrolean traverses leading to the highly diverse granite greatness.  The Sport Park at Boulder Canyon is where we found ourselves on Sunday.  Again Ryan crushed!  Several days after our weekend of climbing with Ryan, I hear he has been dreaming of rock climbing and waking up with sweaty hands:) 

              Ryan crossing Boulder Creek via a "hand tyro" to The Sport Park


              Kristin on the "aerial tyro" to Avalon Wall



              Ryno on Chicken Hawk 5.9+
              
              Me on-sighting  Big Dipper 5.11a

              Crossing in style:)

              Noteworthy Sends:

              Big Dipper  5.11a
              OS


              Eldo - A Few of the "Easy" Classics

              Our Golden based adventure pad received its first visitors last week.  Friends from NM (Robin and Eowyn) escaped their drought ridden southwestern state for some good ol CO rock love’n.  The sched for each day included early starts to avoid the midday heat which scorches the majority of EldoradoCanyon’s glorious formations.  Upon completion of the AM’s routes, we would drive back to Golden for some Clear Creek action, taking advantage of numerous afternoon shaded crags.  The third stage of each day led to much anticipated visits to one of CO’s five hundred thousand billion micro breweries, for some post climbing brew ha ha’s.

              Breweries visited:
              Golden City Brewery (2nd largest brewery in Golden)
              Tommy Knockers Brewery
              Avery Brewery       

              Guidebook: 
              NEW Eldorado Canyon Guidebook is RAD  

              Robin on Calypso's 1st pitch
              Kristin and I following...Hey Robin where's my protection on red?
              K on the 2nd pitch of Breezy
              Love It
              Robin on West Chimney
              K showing up Robin and climbing The Great Zot's 1st pitch finger crack


































              Belaying Robin on pitch 3 of Swanson's Arete.  In the background is Rewritten's classic 4th pitch
              K on the super exposed 3rd pitch of Swanson's Arete
              K the money pitch 4 roof on Swanson's
              The crew each with our own variation of squinting to avoid the blazing sun, after topping out Lumpe Tower on Redgarden Wall

              Ten Sleep Canyon - Reunion on Limestone

              The Trips Itinerary 
              1. July 4th: last day of Residency with team Deac.  Gonna miss you guys:
              2. July 5th AM: Cram all of our belongings into two vehicles and one 5x8 Uhaul trailer.
              3. July 5th PM: In route to Ten Sleep Canyon Wyoming for a climbing reunion between  "The Crew Formally from NM" and "The Crew Currently from NM, AZ"
              4. July 10th: Completing the journey and move to our new home in Golden, Colorado
              The Guidebook:
              Ten Sleep Climbing Guide by Aaron Huey -2011

              The Climbing:
              Ten sleep Canyon is located in the Bighorn Mountains of north-central Wyoming, offering world-class limestone climbing.  Tommy Caldwell, Jonathan Siegrist among other professional climbers found Ten Sleep a more than worthy destination.  Click HERE for a link to Siegrist's blog and entry for Ten Sleep.

              The Crew:

              Da Crew - Short on Shot Glasses for Suzanna's B-day thus bowls and PBR cans:)
              PBR Camp Fire Bomb - WAG Photos








              Found in the Little Sleeper town of Ten Sleep Wyoming, about 15 minute drive from the Climbing



              Some of the east side crags - including the ARC
























              The Mondo Beyondo Sector, with Slavery Wall seen at pictures center























              Trail Markers - Ten Sleep Style




























              Helmet :) 






























              Wendy from Santa Fe on Burning Grandma's Bones 5.11b/c































              Full Bloom




























              Me on Crossbow Chaos Theory 5.11a





































              Noteworthy Sends:


              Burning Grandma's Bones 5.11b/c
              FL


              Crossbow Chaos Theory 5.11a
              OS


              I Just Do Eyes 5.11b
              OS


              We have Arrived!  Golden ROCKS :)


              The "Origins" & "Headers" - Smith Rock

              The Origins of Sport Climbing - or better described as bolted featureless concrete vertical walls.
              • 1983 : Alan Watts introduced sport climbing to the US, with Watts Tots, 5.12b at Smith Rock, Oregon 
              • 2011: Kristin, Brian, Casey and Me make our first and defiantly not our last trip to Smith 
              • 2011: Kristin battles Rock
              This place is rad, its the whole enchilada...awesome bivy site with heated water and showers, dirt-bags from all over the globe setting up camp for weeks at a time, thousands of routes sport n trad, the winding crooked creek snaking its way around the countless formations of volcanic tuft, oh ya and snakes...tons of them.  We saw 5 snakes including one of those rattler kinds.

              Mt Hood over Asterisk Pass & The Christian Brothers Wall


              The Morning Glory Wall - in all its glory




              My Casey on The Outsiders 5.9

              Brian setting up with the static beta on Toxic 5.11b


              Me setting up for the dyno beta


              Nailing the Dyno


              Kristin On-sighting Carla the Stripper 5.8


              Brian's Casey on Hop on Pop 5.8



              The "Battle" - K takes a header.  
              The darn rope behind the foot during an awkward crux maneuver :( 

              Kristin was on fire leading and red-pointing several routes over the weekend, then the Phoenix wall got the Phoenix wall did the above.  She was two bolts from the on sight when an awkward sequence forced the rope behind her right foot, I yelled watch your right foot, then she popped off. It wasn't til the end of the fall that the rope flipped her upside down, her left elbow and forearm hit first followed by her dome.  The above pic was taken as instructed by the patient / ER nurse extraordinaire.  She then instructed the cleaning and temporary closure of the wound.  I must say for a caveman pharmacist, I did such a great job with the temporary fix, that the ER doc looked at the wound and said Derma-bond (basically glue for you non medical peeps) no stitches.  I said  "Doc lets try spreading the wound a bit its pretty deep"  Oh ya it needs stitches answers the doc...DUH!  10 stitches later K and I are heading back to camp for some pita pizzas made by the amazingly tough girl herself.  If it was me we would of been shacking up in the nearest 5 star hotel :)
              • Lesson learned: helmets when sport climbing will be worn when pushing one's limits on lead.
              • Kristin is one tough cookie, oh ya and she's got a hard head:)       
              • The best pain killers or not narcotics.....but BEER



              1 header --> 10 stitches = 10 beers @ Bend Brewery


              Skaha - Penticton - British Columbia

              Back to back weekends at what some regard as BC's best sport climbing destination.  I probably agree after these 2 weekends. 

              Skaha Bluffs:   Skaha Bluffs, near Penticton, in southern British Columbia, is a collection of over 50 gneiss cliffs with over 800 climbs ranging from 30 to 160 feet in length. The variety of and styles of climbs here are what makes the place awesome.  Vertical techy edgy climbs to overhanging pump fests. Penticton sits among Okanagan valley wine country, famous for being Canada's greatest concentration of wineries.  We planned on a wine tour the last day on our bikes, however ol mother nature decided to dampen that idea with non stop overnight rain:( 

              Guidebook:  Skaha Climbing

              Crag Location: google map

              Noteworthy Sends: 
              Special Forces 5.11a
                Red Point
              Banana By-Pass 5.11c
                Flash


              1st weekend: Kristin and I made the inaugural visit, breaking the place in and locating the free "abandoned" campground.  The only sign of any recent visitors or actual use as a campground was the #8 sign where we set up shop.  We also found an amazing restaurant:  Theo's Greek , the best greek food ...well since Greece.





              K on Spro Dog 5.10b
              Kristin is getting stronger and putting the top rope aside once again for the sharp end.  Leading a few routes this weekend, next stop RIFLE Colorado:)




              2nd weekend: Brian and I arrive Friday night at the "not so abandoned" campground, proceed to get yelled at by an old crabby campground host who apparently lives down the street....then she has the nerve to ask for 56.00.  I should of asked if that 56.00 dollars is what they were planning on using to remove the abandoned car and trailer from the "campground"...or was it to complete the two porta poopers that appeared to be an abandoned project from the 90's?  




              The Belfry, one of Skaha's steep crags:)  Good Stuff

              Lake Skaha seen from the crags, provides several beach side campgrounds

              Mission to get in Climbing Shape - China Bend, WA then Q'Emlin Park, ID

              It seems spring skiing has taking a back seat to spring climbing:)  The bug has bitten yet again.  Saturday Brian and I went to one of WA best kept secrets, China Bend.  This gorgeous (yes I just used the word gorgeous) limestone crag sits above the untainted Columbia river, which at this point is fresh Canadian run off.  China bend features maybe around 40 routes, most in the 5.12 range.  The climbing includes some tufas but mainly edges and and rails.  Several 2 pitch routes also exist.  According to Marty Bland's Inland Northwest Rock Climbing Guidebook, Pork Sausage 5.11a is the best 5.11a in the book.  I would have to agree as Pork Sausage was my only send (Onsight) of the day:)  Brilliant route 14 bolts long climbing up a  unique black limestone streak.

              Right side of the Main Wall - China Bend
              Pork Sausage 5.11a, climbs the black streak then finishes straight on to underneath the bush





              On Sunday, Brian , Casey and I went to Q'emlin Park, in Post Falls Idaho for some more.  We decided to play in the sun, thus headed to the sunny Upper Fifth Canyon sector.  Which provides some quality routes on steep highly featured granite.  Below is a nice sequence Casey captured on my favorite route of the day.